Stitch Types: When to Use Overlock, Coverstitch, and Straight Stitch
- Büşra Dalman
- Jul 8
- 2 min read
Updated: Jul 23
Choosing the right stitch types is one of the most essential steps in garment manufacturing. From durability to flexibility and aesthetics, each type of stitch serves a unique purpose. In this post, we’ll break down the three most commonly used industrial stitch types—overlock, coverstitch, and straight stitch—and explain when and why to use them.
Want a more technical breakdown of seam structures and applications? See our article on Types of Seams and Stitching Techniques in Fashion.
Overlock Stitch: Clean Edges and Stretch-Friendly Finish
Overlock (also called serging) is used to finish raw fabric edges and prevent fraying. It typically involves 3, 4, or 5 threads and trims the edge while stitching, making it perfect for high-efficiency production.
When to use it:
Knitwear and stretch fabrics (e.g., t-shirts, activewear)
Inside seams to ensure flexibility
Edge finishing for a professional look
Why it matters: Overlock is fast, efficient, and essential for fabrics that need both strength and elasticity.
Coverstitch: Aesthetic and Functional Finish for Hems
Coverstitch is used for visible hems and seam reinforcements. It creates two parallel lines on the front and a looper thread on the back—ideal for activewear and casualwear.
When to use it:
Hems of t-shirts, leggings, and sweatshirts
Decorative topstitching
High-stretch zones
Why it matters: It offers a clean, retail-ready appearance and withstands repeated wear and stretching.
Straight Stitch: The Workhorse of Woven Fabrics
Straight stitch is the most basic and versatile of all stitch types. It forms a strong linear seam and is mainly used for non-stretch woven fabrics.
When to use it:
Shirts, trousers, jackets
Structural seams
Areas requiring stability and precision
Why it matters: It’s reliable, clean, and essential for tailored garments or any design needing form and firmness.
How to Choose the Right Stitch Types for Your Product
Selecting appropriate stitch types depends on your fabric, design intent, and product usage. For example, a t-shirt requires flexibility (overlock + coverstitch), while a tailored shirt relies on stability (straight stitch). Understanding your stitch strategy early saves time, reduces defects, and boosts product quality.
Choosing the wrong stitch method can compromise the final result. Avoid common pitfalls by reading The Most Common Design Mistakes in Fashion Development.
Let’s Talk
"Which stitch type should we use?" sounds like a technical question—but it often reveals deeper design goals, performance needs, and long-term wearability.
At Ayder Textile, we see these questions as starting points for creative problem solving. Our job isn’t just to sew garments—it’s to align construction techniques like stitch types with your design vision, customer expectations, and production realities.
Whether you're navigating fabric behavior, cost-efficiency, or international standards, understanding stitch options helps you build better, smarter collections.
📩 Let’s talk about how to make your garment ideas manufacturable, scalable, and ready for global markets.
Büşra Dalman
Author of the Article / Customer Representative
Ayder Textile
📞 +90 212 550 74 40
📍 No: 17, Şehit Hidayet Yılmaz Street, Fevzi Çakmak Avenue, 15 Temmuz Neighborhood, Bağcılar, Istanbul 34212, Turkey